In a spectacle that defies the conventional boundaries between life and death, thousands of Shiva devotees, Aghori sadhus, and locals gathered at the Manikarnika Ghat on Saturday, February 28, to celebrate the legendary Masan Holi (Crematorium Holi). While the rest of India prepares for a festival of vibrant colors next week, the “City of Light” chose to celebrate with the gray, sacred ashes of the funeral pyre, honoring a tradition that views death not as an end, but as a divine transition.

_{^{Masan Holi celebrated at Varanasi / Photo : Sudip Chanda}}

The ritual follows the celebration of Rangbhari Ekadashi, the day Lord Shiva is said to have brought Goddess Parvati to Kashi. According to local lore, while Shiva played Holi with the gods and humans using gulal, his most loyal followers—ghosts, spirits, and ghouls—felt left out. To include them, the Mahadev descended to the Mahashmashan (great cremation ground) the following day to play with the only “color” available there: Chita Bhasma (funeral ash). Despite heavy administrative restrictions aimed at crowd management and maintaining the sanctity of the cremation rituals, the fervor remained undamped.

A Contentious Tradition: This year saw a growing debate between traditionalists and reformers. While many see the event as a vital part of Kashi’s “spirit of Moksha,” some local scholars have raised concerns over the scale of the public spectacle in a place meant for mourning.

The Ritual: The day began with a grand aarti at the Masan Nath Temple. Following the prayers, Naga Sadhus and Aghoris smeared their bodies with ash, chanting “Har Har Mahadev” as the rhythmic thumping of Damrus (pellet drums) echoed across the Ganges.

_{^{Naga Sadhus and Aghoris smeared their bodies with ash / Photo : Sudip Chanda}}

Security Measures: Over 4,000 security personnel, including the PAC and RAF, were deployed to manage the estimated 2 to 3 lakh visitors. Drones monitored the narrow lanes of Kashi to prevent overcrowding near active pyres.

^{_{Naga Sadhus and Aghoris smeared their bodies with ash / Photo : Sudip Chanda}}

Observers described the scene as “hauntingly beautiful.” Amidst the smoke of burning pyres, the air turned thick with a mixture of gray ash and pink gulal. Devotees, some dressed as Ganas (attendants of Shiva) with skull garlands and tiger-print clothes, danced in a state of spiritual trance.

“In Kashi, we don’t fear the smashan; we embrace it,” said a local devotee, his face covered in white ash. “This ash is the ultimate truth. Playing Holi with it is our way of telling Mahadev that we accept his world entirely—the beginning and the end.”

_{^{Masan Holi celebrated at Varanasi / Photo : Sudip Chanda}}

The Masan Holi marks the halfway point of the long Banarasi Holi season. The festivities will culminate on March 4 with the main festival of colors, followed by the famous Budhwa Mangal later in the month.