The Lakhe Dance: A Fierce Protector of Indra Jatra

Indra Jatra, also known as Yenya Punhi (येँया पुन्ही) in Newari, is undoubtedly the biggest and most vibrant street festival celebrated by the Newar community in Kathmandu Valley, Nepal. It’s an eight-day long extravaganza that combines ancient rituals, mythological narratives, and spectacular cultural performances. The Lakhe dance is an integral and highly anticipated part of this grand celebration.

Indra Jatra is dedicated to Lord Indra, the God of Rain and King of Heaven, and his mother, Dagini. The festival essentially serves two main purposes:

1. To thank Lord Indra for a good harvest and sufficient rainfall for the coming year.

2. To honor deceased family members from the past year, with prayers for their journey to heaven.

The festival’s origins are often traced back to the 10th century, with legends recounting how Lord Indra descended to Earth in human form to steal parijat (night jasmine) flowers for his mother. Unrecognized, he was captured and imprisoned by the locals. His mother, Dagini, then came to Earth searching for him, and upon realizing his identity, the locals released him. In exchange, Dagini promised to take the souls of the deceased to heaven and ensure good dew throughout winter for a bountiful harvest.

Key Events and Rituals:

Yosin Thanegu (Erection of the Linga): The festival officially begins with the ceremonial erection of a tall wooden pole (linga) made from a selected pine tree. This pole, adorned with the banner of Indra, is hoisted in Basantapur Durbar Square, signifying the start of the festivities.

Kumari Jatra: One of the most captivating aspects is the procession of the Living Goddess, Kumari. A young pre-pubescent Newar girl, chosen as the embodiment of the goddess Taleju, is paraded through the ancient streets of Kathmandu in a grand chariot, accompanied by two other smaller chariots carrying representatives of Lord Ganesh and Bhairava. Witnessing the Kumari is considered highly auspicious.

Bhairava Displays: Large, fearsome masks of Bhairava (a wrathful manifestation of Shiva) are displayed in various parts of the city, particularly the Sweta Bhairava (White Bhairava) in Durbar Square, from whose mouth rice beer is often poured for devotees.

Upāku Wanegu: On the first day, people visit shrines holding lighted incense and butter lamps to honor deceased family members.

Masked Dances: The streets come alive with various masked dances, including those of Bhairava, Mahakali, Dash Avatar, and Pulu Kisi (a dancing elephant representing Indra’s mount). Among these, the Lakhe Dance stands out.

The Lakhe dance is one of the most prominent and popular masked dances during Indra Jatra. The Majipa Lakhe of Kathmandu, specifically from the Majipa locality, is the most famous and is considered a deity and protector. The dance begins on the very first day of the festival with the hoisting of the lingo and continues throughout the eight days, gracing the streets and major crossroads of Kathmandu.

Connection to the Festival’s Narrative:

While the Indra Jatra primarily celebrates Indra and focuses on rain and deceased souls, the Lakhe dance adds another layer of mythological protection. The Lakhe, despite its fearsome appearance, is believed to be a benevolent guardian who chases away evil spirits and safeguards the city’s inhabitants, especially children. Its presence during Indra Jatra reinforces the theme of protection and divine blessings for the community. Some legends suggest that the Lakhe came to the Kathmandu Valley with Goddess Taleju, and its dance during Indra Jatra is to show the path to the Goddess and control other demons.